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Retirednsmilin308
09-03-2019, 04:49 AM
So I have this old pellet gun I got all rusted up from an antique store about a year ago.
I take it apart as much as I dare and clean it up with Corrosion-X and later oil it and then put it back together.
Its power is dependent on how many pumps you give it.
After cleaning it up, though, it only gives its max power after about five (5) pumps.
I think it needs to be sent to a pro for a rebuild, or I need to get a rebuild kit on-line and do it myself, but my research says you need to match the kit with the correct VERSION of this model.

I wonder. Just wonder, might there be anyone on this forum here who knows a thing or two about Benjamin air rifles?
hmmm.....

I just love the wood and steel they were made with back in the day.
The ones made now are nothing but pot metal and plastic.
Even the nice $400 German air rifle I got has plastic front and rear sights. As do many new firearms now. Disgusting.

26781

26782

26783

midcan5
09-03-2019, 06:38 AM
Google 'Benjamin air rifles' lots of stuff online. Reminds me of an old BB pump rifle I had.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 07:23 AM
So I have this old pellet gun I got all rusted up from an antique store about a year ago.
I take it apart as much as I dare and clean it up with Corrosion-X and later oil it and then put it back together.
Its power is dependent on how many pumps you give it.
After cleaning it up, though, it only gives its max power after about five (5) pumps.
I think it needs to be sent to a pro for a rebuild, or I need to get a rebuild kit on-line and do it myself, but my research says you need to match the kit with the correct VERSION of this model.

I wonder. Just wonder, might there be anyone on this forum here who knows a thing or two about Benjamin air rifles?
hmmm.....

I just love the wood and steel they were made with back in the day.
The ones made now are nothing but pot metal and plastic.
Even the nice $400 German air rifle I got has plastic front and rear sights. As do many new firearms now. Disgusting.

26781

26782

26783
I know nothing about these rifles but I found this: https://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Benjamin_Sheridan_Repair_Kit_Fits_Some_Pre_1995_Mu lti_Pump_Guns_w_Soldered_Valve/624

It lists your model.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 07:45 AM
Also, here is the owner's manual for your model: https://support.crosman.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/201668074/B342-OM.pdf

Another parts source: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/benjamin-air-rifle/air-rifles-benj/342-ben?page=2

Crepitus
09-03-2019, 07:50 AM
So I have this old pellet gun I got all rusted up from an antique store about a year ago.
I take it apart as much as I dare and clean it up with Corrosion-X and later oil it and then put it back together.
Its power is dependent on how many pumps you give it.
After cleaning it up, though, it only gives its max power after about five (5) pumps.
I think it needs to be sent to a pro for a rebuild, or I need to get a rebuild kit on-line and do it myself, but my research says you need to match the kit with the correct VERSION of this model.

I wonder. Just wonder, might there be anyone on this forum here who knows a thing or two about Benjamin air rifles?
hmmm.....

I just love the wood and steel they were made with back in the day.
The ones made now are nothing but pot metal and plastic.
Even the nice $400 German air rifle I got has plastic front and rear sights. As do many new firearms now. Disgusting.

26781

26782

26783

Cool find. I had a crossman model 140 that had a similar problem. The darn thing was so old the seals in the pump cylinder were leather. Replaced them with rubber and it worked like a charm. Wish I still had it.

stjames1_53
09-03-2019, 07:56 AM
So I have this old pellet gun I got all rusted up from an antique store about a year ago.
I take it apart as much as I dare and clean it up with Corrosion-X and later oil it and then put it back together.
Its power is dependent on how many pumps you give it.
After cleaning it up, though, it only gives its max power after about five (5) pumps.
I think it needs to be sent to a pro for a rebuild, or I need to get a rebuild kit on-line and do it myself, but my research says you need to match the kit with the correct VERSION of this model.

I wonder. Just wonder, might there be anyone on this forum here who knows a thing or two about Benjamin air rifles?
hmmm.....

I just love the wood and steel they were made with back in the day.
The ones made now are nothing but pot metal and plastic.
Even the nice $400 German air rifle I got has plastic front and rear sights. As do many new firearms now. Disgusting.

26781

26782

26783

It is a nice looking piece. If it were me, I'd send it in and let the professionals take care of it. But that's just me.
I have a collector's HO steam locomotive that needs more love than I can give it, so I'm sending it back to the manufacturer for repairs. Best to do that because I'm fearful that I might screw it up even worse than it already is. Some things are just best left to the professionals, IMO

Retirednsmilin308
09-03-2019, 10:23 AM
It is a nice looking piece. If it were me, I'd send it in and let the professionals take care of it. But that's just me.
I have a collector's HO steam locomotive that needs more love than I can give it, so I'm sending it back to the manufacturer for repairs. Best to do that because I'm fearful that I might screw it up even worse than it already is. Some things are just best left to the professionals, IMO

hat is exactly what I will do if I can find one.
I have searched and the parts kits also vary by VERSION of the 342.
Yet i do not have any idea as to what my version is.
That is why I think I will send it out once I find someone that knows what they are doing.
T

Retirednsmilin308
09-03-2019, 10:25 AM
This thread sure has seemed to have brought out the kid in most of us, hasn't it?
Few things are as relaxing and as enjoyable is plinking away with a good BB gun or pellet gun.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 11:39 AM
hat is exactly what I will do if I can find one.
I have searched and the parts kits also vary by VERSION of the 342.
Yet i do not have any idea as to what my version is.
That is why I think I will send it out once I find someone that knows what they are doing.
T
It should go by the serial number. Based on what looked like the serial number on your rifle (206560 ?), it seems to be the 1970's version (1974 I think). https://www.crosman.com/discover/crosman/benjamin-product-dates

Per the Production Reference chart (see same link), it should be this one.




Model 342
Pneumatic, .22 cal. pellet, single shot w/ under lever pump & checkered stock & fore end (1st var.)
Rifle
1968-1986

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 11:45 AM
So I have this old pellet gun I got all rusted up from an antique store about a year ago.
I take it apart as much as I dare and clean it up with Corrosion-X and later oil it and then put it back together.
Its power is dependent on how many pumps you give it.
After cleaning it up, though, it only gives its max power after about five (5) pumps.
I think it needs to be sent to a pro for a rebuild, or I need to get a rebuild kit on-line and do it myself, but my research says you need to match the kit with the correct VERSION of this model.

I wonder. Just wonder, might there be anyone on this forum here who knows a thing or two about Benjamin air rifles?
hmmm.....

I just love the wood and steel they were made with back in the day.
The ones made now are nothing but pot metal and plastic.
Even the nice $400 German air rifle I got has plastic front and rear sights. As do many new firearms now. Disgusting.

26781

26782

26783
Pretty nice looking Benjamin.
Doesn't show a lot of wear in the usual spots so I'm guessing it wasn't used too much.
The main pump tube and barrel are made of brass and there's not a lot of the original finish worn off.
Don't run a hard metal bore cleaner through it.

Does it hold air over night?
I leave them with 3 pumps when not in use.
Post the serial number and I'll tell you what year it was made.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 12:21 PM
It should go by the serial number. Based on what looked like the serial number on your rifle (206560 ?), it seems to be the 1970's version (1974 I think). https://www.crosman.com/discover/crosman/benjamin-product-dates

Per the Production Reference chart (see same link), it should be this one.




Model 342
Pneumatic, .22 cal. pellet, single shot w/ under lever pump & checkered stock & fore end (1st var.)
Rifle
1968-1986



I'm not quite sure about his date of manufacture. That list has always confounded me. There are three things about the description that are not accurate. His is not the first variant. The first variant has the old tootsie roll pump handle. I have several. The serial number usually begins with a "T". I have some that also do not begin with a "T". His does not have the checkered stock and fore end, and I have both styles, smooth like his and checkered.

Please understand I'm only pointing out things I have encountered over the last 25 years of collecting Benjamin air guns.
I also have several Benjamins that are pre-serial number which dates them to before 1957.
The green box of the two I show is pre 1957. They are very hard to find.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 12:27 PM
This thread sure has seemed to have brought out the kid in most of us, hasn't it?
Few things are as relaxing and as enjoyable is plinking away with a good BB gun or pellet gun.
The first thing my step son does when he comes over is plink out the back door with the scoped 342.
We've got tin cans hanging on the back fence.
I've scoped a few Benjamins with old Weaver V22 scopes.
Did you know those old air guns will destroy some scopes?
It's from the double recoil action of the air gun.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 01:29 PM
Cool find. I had a crossman model 140 that had a similar problem. The darn thing was so old the seals in the pump cylinder were leather. Replaced them with rubber and it worked like a charm. Wish I still had it.
Actually acquired a couple of old Crosman 140's in a package deal a few years ago. Sold one to my brother as it was his first air gun also. His original was stolen many years ago. I think I still have the other one.
They have a distinct sound that's different from a Benjamin.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 02:32 PM
I'm not quite sure about his date of manufacture. That list has always confounded me. There are three things about the description that are not accurate. His is not the first variant. The first variant has the old tootsie roll pump handle. I have several. The serial number usually begins with a "T". I have some that also do not begin with a "T". His does not have the checkered stock and fore end, and I have both styles, smooth like his and checkered.

Please understand I'm only pointing out things I have encountered over the last 25 years of collecting Benjamin air guns.
I also have several Benjamins that are pre-serial number which dates them to before 1957.
The green box of the two I show is pre 1957. They are very hard to find.
From further research, it appears that all of the earlier models were made in St. Louis, Mo and later models in Racine, Ill. This one might be a transitional model year, since the bolt looks pre-1990 based on this: https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/benjamin/a-look-at-benjamin-transition-models-1930s-1997/

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 04:07 PM
From further research, it appears that all of the earlier models were made in St. Louis, Mo and later models in Racine, Ill. This one might be a transitional model year, since the bolt looks pre-1990 based on this: https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/benjamin/a-look-at-benjamin-transition-models-1930s-1997/
Once you get involved in this adventure it almost becomes an obsession.
The move from St Louis to Racine and the models that were affected makes some very rare.
There are even stories of bin parts from the previous year being used up in the very first new year models.
Great link. Thanks. It's going to take me a while to look at all the information.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 04:17 PM
From further research, it appears that all of the earlier models were made in St. Louis, Mo and later models in Racine, Ill. This one might be a transitional model year, since the bolt looks pre-1990 based on this: https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/benjamin/a-look-at-benjamin-transition-models-1930s-1997/

This picture of the different bolts from that website is interesting.
https://www.vintageairgunsgallery.com/images/2019/06/14/e16b864e5ed5af8e1e988cc2bc14628f.jpg
The far right is known as the 2 piece bolt. Those are the oldest and most rare. The piece that screwed in often fell out and was lost.
Also notice the size of the ball on the end of the bolt got larger in the 347 and 342 models. There was also a model 340 which was a smooth bore. The 342 and 347 had rifling in the barrel.

The parts next to each bolt are also interesting. The bottom part is a tiny ball bearing and the part above it is a spring. They are fitted into the hole in the bolt on the left of each bolt about halfway up. If you remove the bolt, like I did the first time, and don't catch that ball bearing it goes flying across the room and is very hard to find.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 04:29 PM
Once you get involved in this adventure it almost becomes an obsession.
The move from St Louis to Racine and the models that were affected makes some very rare.
There are even stories of bin parts from the previous year being used up in the very first new year models.
Great link. Thanks. It's going to take me a while to look at all the information.

It also seems to me that the trigger guard is a little bit different in the Racine model years than the St. Louis model years, the former being a little bit thicker but not as long?

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 04:35 PM
This picture of the different bolts from that website is interesting.
https://www.vintageairgunsgallery.com/images/2019/06/14/e16b864e5ed5af8e1e988cc2bc14628f.jpg
The far right is known as the 2 piece bolt. Those are the oldest and most rare. The piece that screwed in often fell out and was lost.
Also notice the size of the ball on the end of the bolt got larger in the 347 and 342 models. There was also a model 340 which was a smooth bore. The 342 and 347 had rifling in the barrel.

The parts next to each bolt are also interesting. The bottom part is a tiny ball bearing and the part above it is a spring. They are fitted into the hole in the bolt on the left of each bolt about halfway up. If you remove the bolt, like I did the first time, and don't catch that ball bearing it goes flying across the room and is very hard to find.
This is the picture that I wanted you to see. The bolt on Retiredsmilin's gun that you can see in his picture, looks like the 82-86 342 (and I assume earlier models).

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 04:39 PM
This picture from the website is also interesting.
It shows several details of the early Benjamin air guns.
https://www.vintageairgunsgallery.com/images/2019/06/14/de2cf8791e4f0002bad8eb0a4e664b8e.jpg

The safety is called a button safety.
The bolt is the two piece bolt, notice the straight slot screw head on the bolt handle and also the ball bearing and spring.
The tootsie roll pump handle used screws. Later models used a pressed roll pin.
The rear sight is a dovetail mount.
And the bolt is the pin style which allowed air around it rather than some bolts that are hollowed out and have a hole to pass the air.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 04:49 PM
It also seems to me that the trigger guard is a little bit different in the Racine model years than the St. Louis model years, the former being a little bit thicker but not as long?
There were several subtle changes made along with some obvious ones.
The trigger guard changed a few times as well as many other parts.
One thing you can't see in the pictures is the different thickness of the old stocks. They were much thinner on the old models.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 05:02 PM
This is the picture that I wanted you to see. The bolt on Retiredsmilin's gun that you can see in his picture, looks like the 82-86 342 (and I assume earlier models).
Yep. You are right on about the bolt. The knob on the end is larger than the earlier models. That changed when they went to the 340 series (340, 342, 347).

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 05:03 PM
There were several subtle changes made along with some obvious ones.
The trigger guard changed a few times as well as many other parts.
One thing you can't see in the pictures is the different thickness of the old stocks. They were much thinner on the old models.

I did read that the Racine models are heavier than the St. Louis models.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 05:06 PM
Yep. You are right on about the bolt. The knob on the end is larger than the earlier models. That changed when they went to the 340 series (340, 342, 347).

But the 1990 model looks like it's smaller, plus it has a silver or zinc finish.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 05:17 PM
I did read that the Racine models are heavier than the St. Louis models.
There is a very noticeable difference in the thickness of the stocks as the models get newer. The older ones were much thinner.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 05:28 PM
But the 1990 model looks like it's smaller, plus it has a silver or zinc finish.
I'll be honest here. The newest 340 series I own is 1985.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 05:41 PM
I'll be honest here. The newest 340 series I own is 1985.
There is fellow called Kelvinator on this website (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=53399.0) that seems to have a very similar 342. There also seem to be quite a few 342 owners on the site. Perhaps if photos of the rifle were posted there, someone might recognize it.

BenjaminO
09-03-2019, 07:13 PM
There is fellow called Kelvinator on this website (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=53399.0) that seems to have a very similar 342. There also seem to be quite a few 342 owners on the site. Perhaps if photos of the rifle were posted there, someone might recognize it.
I have no doubt it's a Benjamin 342.

Dr. Who
09-03-2019, 08:08 PM
I have no doubt it's a Benjamin 342.
No, I mean which year it might be.

Thom Paine
09-03-2019, 10:08 PM
hat is exactly what I will do if I can find one.
I have searched and the parts kits also vary by VERSION of the 342.
Yet i do not have any idea as to what my version is.
That is why I think I will send it out once I find someone that knows what they are doing.
T

From the Cheap Seats:
Howdy RaS ... you may find considerable help at the site ;; Good folk !

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=forum

Dr. Who
09-04-2019, 12:28 AM
From the Cheap Seats:
Howdy RaS ... you may find considerable help at the site ;; Good folk !

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=forum
Yup, that's the same website that I linked. They seem to have a lot of 342 owners.

BenjaminO
09-04-2019, 09:34 AM
No, I mean which year it might be.
OK, did some digging through some old notes...
The 340, 342, and 347 series without the "T" were made in 1982 into the early 1990's.
Here's a list I found back...

Benjamin

1982 100001 109340
1983 109341 131130
1984 131131 159640
1985 159641 178080
1986 178081 195080
1987 195081 212080
1988 212081 229080
1989 229081 246080
1990 246081 263080

Looks like his is a 1987.
Notice this list is different from the one you found at the Crosman site as there is no "T" prefix in front of the serial numbers and they end in 1982. At some point in 1982 they changed their serial number methods.

Sorry it took so long to find it. I've been fixing all the things that were messed up by the lighting strike that hit my house last week.

Dr. Who
09-04-2019, 11:59 AM
OK, did some digging through some old notes...
The 340, 342, and 347 series without the "T" were made in 1982 into the early 1990's.
Here's a list I found back...

Benjamin

1982 100001 109340
1983 109341 131130
1984 131131 159640
1985 159641 178080
1986 178081 195080
1987 195081 212080
1988 212081 229080
1989 229081 246080
1990 246081 263080

Looks like his is a 1987.
Notice this list is different from the one you found at the Crosman site as there is no "T" prefix in front of the serial numbers and they end in 1982. At some point in 1982 they changed their serial number methods.

Sorry it took so long to find it. I've been fixing all the things that were messed up by the lighting strike that hit my house last week.

Good work! I figured it was pre-1990 based on the bolt. The Crosman site clearly has an incomplete listing. So knowing that it's a 1987 Racine model, it shouldn't be too difficult to find parts.

I hope there wasn't too much damage caused by that lightning strike. Do you live in a rural area?

BenjaminO
09-04-2019, 01:09 PM
Good work! I figured it was pre-1990 based on the bolt. The Crosman site clearly has an incomplete listing. So knowing that it's a 1987 Racine model, it shouldn't be too difficult to find parts.

I hope there wasn't too much damage caused by that lightning strike. Do you live in a rural area?
Parts are plentiful for that model. It can be tricky installing the seal kit but once you've done one it's easy.
He'd have to obtain a valve pulling tool along with the seal kit.
If he has it done by someone I'd suggest Baker Airguns or Pyramid. They both do great work.
But I want to know why he wants to install a seal kit. It may not be necessary.


The lightning got 2 tv's, all the comcast hd converters and the cable modem. Several LED lights are shot and one Brother printer, one EFCI breaker and a couple of GFI breakers.
The main hit was the chimney. It blew the top off, bricks everywhere, and followed the nearest tree into it's roots where it severed the underground comcast cable. They had to install a temp line above ground until they can run a new one.
Luckily only one casualty. A squirrel.
Thanks for asking.

Dr. Who
09-04-2019, 01:18 PM
Parts are plentiful for that model. It can be tricky installing the seal kit but once you've done one it's easy.
He'd have to obtain a valve pulling tool along with the seal kit.
If he has it done by someone I'd suggest Baker Airguns or Pyramid. They both do great work.
But I want to know why he wants to install a seal kit. It may not be necessary.


The lightning got 2 tv's, all the comcast hd converters and the cable modem. Several LED lights are shot and one Brother printer, one EFCI breaker and a couple of GFI breakers.
The main hit was the chimney. It blew the top off, bricks everywhere, and followed the nearest tree into it's roots where it severed the underground comcast cable. They had to install a temp line above ground until they can run a new one.
Luckily only one casualty. A squirrel.
Thanks for asking.
I suppose insurance will pay for whatever exceeds your deductible and Comcast will be responsible for their end. Still it sounds expensive. Are you considering installing a lightning rod?

BenjaminO
09-04-2019, 05:00 PM
I suppose insurance will pay for whatever exceeds your deductible and Comcast will be responsible for their end. Still it sounds expensive. Are you considering installing a lightning rod?
We have USAA and it's all good. The chimney and roof damage are the big things and they have that covered. We can also post receipts of smaller things like a printer, clocks, led lights, etc.
And yea, it's not my fault the lightning cut their wire.

The lightning struck the chimney. Brick and mortar. Best guess is an oak tree branch was being blown by the wind and was touching the chimney at the exact right second that drew the lightning. A lightning rod wouldn't have made any difference.

Dr. Who
09-04-2019, 05:57 PM
We have USAA and it's all good. The chimney and roof damage are the big things and they have that covered. We can also post receipts of smaller things like a printer, clocks, led lights, etc.
And yea, it's not my fault the lightning cut their wire.

The lightning struck the chimney. Brick and mortar. Best guess is an oak tree branch was being blown by the wind and was touching the chimney at the exact right second that drew the lightning. A lightning rod wouldn't have made any difference.
Well, if that tree wasn't destroyed by the lightning strike, there's a way to protect it (and your house) from being damaged by lightning strikes. Oaks seem to be susceptible to lightning more than some other species.
https://www.angieslist.com/articles/how-protect-your-trees-lightning-strikes.htm

Retirednsmilin308
09-09-2019, 01:36 PM
Pretty nice looking Benjamin.
Doesn't show a lot of wear in the usual spots so I'm guessing it wasn't used too much.
The main pump tube and barrel are made of brass and there's not a lot of the original finish worn off.
Don't run a hard metal bore cleaner through it.

Does it hold air over night?
I leave them with 3 pumps when not in use.
Post the serial number and I'll tell you what year it was made.



My apologies to everyone. I hurt myself out back and can not stand or sit for very long.
Gotta give the Meloxicam a few days to work its magic.

The serial number is 206560. It seems Owls do have great eyes!

Retirednsmilin308
09-09-2019, 01:41 PM
From further research, it appears that all of the earlier models were made in St. Louis, Mo and later models in Racine, Ill. This one might be a transitional model year, since the bolt looks pre-1990 based on this: https://forum.vintageairgunsgallery.com/benjamin/a-look-at-benjamin-transition-models-1930s-1997/

This one is markerd Racine, WIS...before the two letter state designations.
You are awesome.

Retirednsmilin308
09-09-2019, 01:45 PM
This picture of the different bolts from that website is interesting.
https://www.vintageairgunsgallery.com/images/2019/06/14/e16b864e5ed5af8e1e988cc2bc14628f.jpg
The far right is known as the 2 piece bolt. Those are the oldest and most rare. The piece that screwed in often fell out and was lost.
Also notice the size of the ball on the end of the bolt got larger in the 347 and 342 models. There was also a model 340 which was a smooth bore. The 342 and 347 had rifling in the barrel.

The parts next to each bolt are also interesting. The bottom part is a tiny ball bearing and the part above it is a spring. They are fitted into the hole in the bolt on the left of each bolt about halfway up. If you remove the bolt, like I did the first time, and don't catch that ball bearing it goes flying across the room and is very hard to find.



Mine looks exactly like the fourth one from the right.
Dang this info is good to know.

Retirednsmilin308
09-09-2019, 01:48 PM
This is the picture that I wanted you to see. The bolt on Retiredsmilin's gun that you can see in his picture, looks like the 82-86 342 (and I assume earlier models).

I think you are right. it certainly looks like the fourth one from the right.

Retirednsmilin308
09-09-2019, 01:56 PM
Parts are plentiful for that model. It can be tricky installing the seal kit but once you've done one it's easy.
He'd have to obtain a valve pulling tool along with the seal kit.
If he has it done by someone I'd suggest Baker Airguns or Pyramid. They both do great work.
But I want to know why he wants to install a seal kit. It may not be necessary.


The lightning got 2 tv's, all the comcast hd converters and the cable modem. Several LED lights are shot and one Brother printer, one EFCI breaker and a couple of GFI breakers.
The main hit was the chimney. It blew the top off, bricks everywhere, and followed the nearest tree into it's roots where it severed the underground comcast cable. They had to install a temp line above ground until they can run a new one.
Luckily only one casualty. A squirrel.
Thanks for asking.

was thinking a seal kit may be what is needed to restore its power. Right now the most power i get out of it is 5 pumps.
Any more do nothing.
I

BenjaminO
09-10-2019, 09:52 AM
was thinking a seal kit may be what is needed to restore its power. Right now the most power i get out of it is 5 pumps.
Any more do nothing.
I
Gotcha.
Okay, some more questions, if I may.
Considering you are at 5 pumps. Be careful going too many more as you might cause what's called air lock or valve lock. It's caused by too much pressure in the air chamber and the inertia of the hammer spring and steel hammer don't have enough force to push the air valve open to release air.
What kind of pellets are you using? If lead are they wad cutters, ball nose or pointed? If you are using the newer plastic pellets with the metal nose, which brand?
What kind of penetration do you get shooting a Campbell soup can at about 30 feet? One side or clean through? I'm most familiar with soup cans as that is what I use.
Once you've shot a round, pull back the bolt to re-cock and dry fire. No pumping. Is there a lot of air or is a little burp?
Last question...does it hold air overnight? Important question as a reseal kit will only help the holding of air over time and will not increase power.

Let me know we'll go from there.
Hope you are feeling better.

Retirednsmilin308
09-10-2019, 11:38 AM
Gotcha.
Okay, some more questions, if I may.
Considering you are at 5 pumps. Be careful going too many more as you might cause what's called air lock or valve lock. It's caused by too much pressure in the air chamber and the inertia of the hammer spring and steel hammer don't have enough force to push the air valve open to release air.
What kind of pellets are you using? If lead are they wad cutters, ball nose or pointed? If you are using the newer plastic pellets with the metal nose, which brand?
What kind of penetration do you get shooting a Campbell soup can at about 30 feet? One side or clean through? I'm most familiar with soup cans as that is what I use.
Once you've shot a round, pull back the bolt to re-$#@! and dry fire. No pumping. Is there a lot of air or is a little burp?
Last question...does it hold air overnight? Important question as a reseal kit will only help the holding of air over time and will not increase power.

Let me know we'll go from there.
Hope you are feeling better.

OK, Professor Pellet, pics are coming in the next post..
You tell me what to do and i will do it.

Retirednsmilin308
09-10-2019, 11:50 AM
OK, Professor Pellet, here are all the pellet types I have and no soup cans but rinsed out fruit and veggie cans.
The snuff box is full of junk Chinese pellets I use just because they came for free with a gun I had one.

let me know i I will go out back and do it.

26880

26881

BenjaminO
09-10-2019, 01:00 PM
OK, Professor Pellet, here are all the pellet types I have and no soup cans but rinsed out fruit and veggie cans.
The snuff box is full of junk Chinese pellets I use just because they came for free with a gun I had one.

let me know i I will go out back and do it.

26880

26881
Haha...okay.
Any of those cans will work. What I wanted is tin cans, not aluminum cans. Any one of them will work.
As far as the pellets, I'd throw away the junk chinese pellets. The rest are good brand names unless they are old and dry out. What I do is add a couple of drops of 3 in 1 oil to them and carefully mix it around. Dry pellets will gum up the brass barrel and plug up the rifling. PS...don't use a metal bore cleaner as it will scratch the brass barrel.
Try the Gamo pellets and let me know how they do.
Then try the red plastic pellets on another can.

Let me know what happens.
Also, what about all the other questions I asked?

Retirednsmilin308
09-10-2019, 01:09 PM
Haha...okay.
Any of those cans will work. What I wanted is tin cans, not aluminum cans. Any one of them will work.
As far as the pellets, I'd throw away the junk chinese pellets. The rest are good brand names unless they are old and dry out. What I do is add a couple of drops of 3 in 1 oil to them and carefully mix it around. Dry pellets will gum up the brass barrel and plug up the rifling. PS...don't use a metal bore cleaner as it will scratch the brass barrel.
Try the Gamo pellets and let me know how they do.
Then try the red plastic pellets on another can.

Let me know what happens.
Also, what about all the other questions I asked?

will re read everything and do it all tomorrow.
I kinda overextended myself today.
I was up at 0400 and started straightening up the place and moving stuff around.

I laso posted my short story here in that section.
if you read it, I hope you like it.
It is in five posts.
I

BenjaminO
09-10-2019, 01:25 PM
will re read everything and do it all tomorrow.
I kinda overextended myself today.
I was up at 0400 and started straightening up the place and moving stuff around.

I laso posted my short story here in that section.
if you read it, I hope you like it.
It is in five posts.
I
Get well friend.
Don't over do it.

Retirednsmilin308
09-10-2019, 01:33 PM
Get well friend.
Don't over do it.



Yeah, I think I need to lie down.

Retirednsmilin308
09-11-2019, 02:34 AM
Haha...okay.
Any of those cans will work. What I wanted is tin cans, not aluminum cans. Any one of them will work.
As far as the pellets, I'd throw away the junk chinese pellets. The rest are good brand names unless they are old and dry out. What I do is add a couple of drops of 3 in 1 oil to them and carefully mix it around. Dry pellets will gum up the brass barrel and plug up the rifling. PS...don't use a metal bore cleaner as it will scratch the brass barrel.
Try the Gamo pellets and let me know how they do.
Then try the red plastic pellets on another can.

Let me know what happens.
Also, what about all the other questions I asked?



I have lots of lubes, but no 3 in 1.
I have Hoppe's Lubrication oil in the orange squeeze bottle,
lots of thread cutting oil,
some Wahl oil for my whisker clippers,
and automotive 10w 30.

..and some Break Free CLP, but that is also a bore cleaner too.

It makes sense using lube on the pellets.
I will wait for your reply as it is zero-dark-thirty here right now.
Turns out i was down for 13 hours.


more answers to your questions in a later post.

Retirednsmilin308
09-11-2019, 02:57 AM
26897

I also have this high dollar $400 German air rifle that I feel I completely wasted my money on.
An RWS Diana 460 T-06 Magnum.
(macho sounding tough guy name isn't it) :cheers:

To me, a rifle is all about accuracy.
It is powerful, and i was told it needed to be "shot in" before you can begin to test its accuracy.
Well after shooting 300 of those cheap crap Chinese pellets just to put lead down its barrel, its accuracy is pure crap.
I have BB guns that are better.

I got it for the usual survivalist reasons but have found my Remington 514 single shot .22 using CB caps is 100% better.
It is also actually quieter.
Does not have plastic front and rear sights,
Does not take three men and a boy to (rooster)
and is faster to use over all.
It is even lighter.

Am I doing something wrong with this very expensive German club?

Retirednsmilin308
09-11-2019, 03:09 AM
The local time is 0308 and i just gave the Benjamin three pumps and let it rest on the couch in the man cave.

BenjaminO
09-11-2019, 08:49 AM
I have lots of lubes, but no 3 in 1.
I have Hoppe's Lubrication oil in the orange squeeze bottle,
lots of thread cutting oil,
some Wahl oil for my whisker clippers,
and automotive 10w 30.

..and some Break Free CLP, but that is also a bore cleaner too.

It makes sense using lube on the pellets.
I will wait for your reply as it is zero-dark-thirty here right now.
Turns out i was down for 13 hours.


more answers to your questions in a later post.
I'd go with the Hoppe's
Although I've been using 3 in 1 on my first Benjamin from 1958 and it still shoots like new.
If you can find some it would be worth it.

BenjaminO
09-11-2019, 09:33 AM
26897

I also have this high dollar $400 German air rifle that I feel I completely wasted my money on.
An RWS Diana 460 T-06 Magnum.
(macho sounding tough guy name isn't it) :cheers:

To me, a rifle is all about accuracy.
It is powerful, and i was told it needed to be "shot in" before you can begin to test its accuracy.
Well after shooting 300 of those cheap crap Chinese pellets just to put lead down its barrel, its accuracy is pure crap.
I have BB guns that are better.

I got it for the usual survivalist reasons but have found my Remington 514 single shot .22 using CB caps is 100% better.
It is also actually quieter.
Does not have plastic front and rear sights,
Does not take three men and a boy to (rooster)
and is faster to use over all.
It is even lighter.

Am I doing something wrong with this very expensive German club?
To be honest I've only recently acquired a couple of similar pellet guns so I don't know a lot about them.
One thing you might want to try is clean the barrel (because it's steel) with a regular bore cleaner brush.
The rifling might be loaded up from the cheap dry chinese pellets.
I do however share your disdain with that type of pellet gun.
The 2 that I acquired last summer at an auction are not very accurate. One is a Crosman and the other a Benjamin.
I'm not impressed either. Even my son prefers the older Benjamin 342.

Do you have a scope on the Diana?
If so is it a scope that's designed for air guns or .22 rifles?

Retirednsmilin308
09-17-2019, 06:44 PM
To be honest I've only recently acquired a couple of similar pellet guns so I don't know a lot about them.
One thing you might want to try is clean the barrel (because it's steel) with a regular bore cleaner brush.
The rifling might be loaded up from the cheap dry chinese pellets.
I do however share your disdain with that type of pellet gun.
The 2 that I acquired last summer at an auction are not very accurate. One is a Crosman and the other a Benjamin.
I'm not impressed either. Even my son prefers the older Benjamin 342.

Do you have a scope on the Diana?
If so is it a scope that's designed for air guns or .22 rifles?



Sorry for the long delay.
I hurt myself pretty bad and was flat on my back last several days.
All I could do was feed the wildlife and the cats and then crawl back in bed.
Sometimes, literally.

Yes, I had a Crossman scope on that thing, but it was not worth it, its accuracy was so crappy.

Hey, can i shoot any of the cans i already have rather than a Campbell's soup can?
They are pretty strong and i do not believe any are made of aluminum.
Is there a way to tell?

You also said 30 feet if i remember right, but how many pumps?

Your friend,
Dave

Retirednsmilin308
09-17-2019, 06:47 PM
I'd go with the Hoppe's
Although I've been using 3 in 1 on my first Benjamin from 1958 and it still shoots like new.
If you can find some it would be worth it.



Oh, after 26 hours the air was still compressed and it fired nice and as expected.
Then recocking the bolt, I only heard the spring release.

Thank you, Professor Pellet, that was a very nice test.

BenjaminO
09-18-2019, 08:33 AM
Sorry for the long delay.
I hurt myself pretty bad and was flat on my back last several days.
All I could do was feed the wildlife and the cats and then crawl back in bed.
Sometimes, literally.

Yes, I had a Crossman scope on that thing, but it was not worth it, its accuracy was so crappy.

Hey, can i shoot any of the cans i already have rather than a Campbell's soup can?
They are pretty strong and i do not believe any are made of aluminum.
Is there a way to tell?

You also said 30 feet if i remember right, but how many pumps?

Your friend,
Dave
Glad you are feeling better. Stay that way!!
Any old tin can will work. If a magnet sticks to it it's not aluminum.
And yea I'd suggest about 25 to 30 feet with 3, then maybe 4 and then maybe 5 pumps to see if you notice any additional power as you increase the pumps.
As far as scopes, I have been lucky to find (usually on ebay) the old vintage Weaver V22 scopes. I have several on different pellet guns and I love them.

FindersKeepers
09-18-2019, 08:40 AM
Sorry for the long delay.
I hurt myself pretty bad and was flat on my back last several days.
All I could do was feed the wildlife and the cats and then crawl back in bed.
Sometimes, literally.

Yes, I had a Crossman scope on that thing, but it was not worth it, its accuracy was so crappy.

Hey, can i shoot any of the cans i already have rather than a Campbell's soup can?
They are pretty strong and i do not believe any are made of aluminum.
Is there a way to tell?

You also said 30 feet if i remember right, but how many pumps?

Your friend,
Dave

I'm so sorry to hear that! I hope you're feeling better and on the mend now.

BenjaminO
09-18-2019, 09:08 AM
Oh, after 26 hours the air was still compressed and it fired nice and as expected.
Then recocking the bolt, I only heard the spring release.

Thank you, Professor Pellet, that was a very nice test.
Okay!!! That's great.
The reason for that test and the result tells me you probably don't need to reseal it.
The main thing to realize is that resealing it will NOT increase the power.

Since we know that let's focus on the pump cup.
If it's not sealing completely as you pump it up air is escaping around the cup rather than being forced into the air chamber.
This is a common problem. As they age they get stiff and don't seal like they should.
You have several choices for repair. One thing would be to remove the pump arm and try cleaning the pump cup and the pump barrel, oil it up and reassemble and see it that helps.
I'd suggest either ordering a new one or have it done for you. Baker Airguns or Pyramid Air both have the parts if you want to order them or they will repair it for you. I believe Baker does the whole reseal and pump works for about $60.
If you want to try yourself you'll have to carefully remove the end cap and pump handle by knocking out the two roll pins or expanding pins. Obviously it can be tricky because you don't want to ding up the pellet gun.
I used to use a 2x4 or 2x6 with a hole drilled to give the pins a place to drop. You'll need a pin punch to get them out. I have a small arbor press that works great.

Keep me posted as to how things are going.

Retirednsmilin308
09-18-2019, 01:06 PM
Glad you are feeling better. Stay that way!!
Any old tin can will work. If a magnet sticks to it it's not aluminum.
And yea I'd suggest about 25 to 30 feet with 3, then maybe 4 and then maybe 5 pumps to see if you notice any additional power as you increase the pumps.
As far as scopes, I have been lucky to find (usually on ebay) the old vintage Weaver V22 scopes. I have several on different pellet guns and I love them.

Once i find one accurate enough I will do the same. V22, huh. Got it.

Retirednsmilin308
09-18-2019, 01:17 PM
Okay!!! That's great.
The reason for that test and the result tells me you probably don't need to reseal it.
The main thing to realize is that resealing it will NOT increase the power.

Since we know that let's focus on the pump cup.
If it's not sealing completely as you pump it up air is escaping around the cup rather than being forced into the air chamber.
This is a common problem. As they age they get stiff and don't seal like they should.
You have several choices for repair. One thing would be to remove the pump arm and try cleaning the pump cup and the pump barrel, oil it up and reassemble and see it that helps.
I'd suggest either ordering a new one or have it done for you. Baker Airguns or Pyramid Air both have the parts if you want to order them or they will repair it for you. I believe Baker does the whole reseal and pump works for about $60.
If you want to try yourself you'll have to carefully remove the end cap and pump handle by knocking out the two roll pins or expanding pins. Obviously it can be tricky because you don't want to ding up the pellet gun.
I used to use a 2x4 or 2x6 with a hole drilled to give the pins a place to drop. You'll need a pin punch to get them out. I have a small arbor press that works great.

Keep me posted as to how things are going.

Forget the cans. I am going to contact Baker Airguns. I have a nice box and lots of packing paper.

Thank you for all the help. Dr. Who and yourself have been completely awesome.

BenjaminO
09-18-2019, 01:40 PM
Forget the cans. I am going to contact Baker Airguns. I have a nice box and lots of packing paper.

Thank you for all the help. Dr. Who and yourself have been completely awesome.
Probably a good choice. Once it's fixed up you won't be sorry.
Mount a Weaver V22 scope on it and you'll have a really handy air gun.
I have 2 in my bug out kit(s) with a couple thousand pellets for good measure.
Great for small game and quiet taboot.

BenjaminO
10-07-2019, 08:27 AM
27109